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United
Kingdom | Families
and kids | Water sports Sea change Alexandra Buxton and family test the waters in 10 of the best British tidal pools Saturday July 26, 2003 The Guardian It's the hottest day so far this year. The sea is a quarter of a mile away, a streak of white against a clear blue sky, with tiny figures dancing in the surf. I am floating on my back in a seawater swimming pool, which is washed out and replenished with every tide. Watched over by a lifeguard in a bright yellow shirt, my daughters are practising their dives with a gang of new friends. My husband is scouring the town for the freshest, plumpest pasties, which we will eat sitting on the pool wall, our legs dangling in the cool, green water. This is Summerleaze Beach at Bude, Cornwall. And it's bliss. We don't mind sharing our pool with starfish and crabs. We don't mind, or not much, feeling long fronds of slippery seaweed tickling our toes. With the shallow sea right out, this deep pool, curved around the base of the cliff, is our tiny bit of ocean. If we stay on, swimming and sunbathing, till the tide turns, we will watch the sea race in over the flat sand, washing away the day's sandcastles and slopping over the thick stone walls of the pool to claim it back. In the 1930s, when the tidal pool at Bude was built, seawater swimming pools were all the rage. Perhaps a hundred or more man-made tidal bathing places were constructed around the coast of the British Isles, a large number of them in Scotland. They ranged from simple swimming holes, made by shoring up natural rock pools, to elaborate seawater lidos, resplendent with fountains and cascades, swooping slides and soaring diving boards. Grandest of all was South Bay Lido in Scarborough, once the largest pool in Europe, and now closed and crumbling amid heated debate about its future. A near contender in the glamour stakes, and rival to the triangular Jubilee Pool at Penzance, was Tinside Lido on Plymouth Hoe, which last year won a reprieve and, following a £4m rejuvenation of the waterfront, is to reopen next month. Today, around 30 tidal pools remain in use, and it's the simplest and least swanky that have best stood the test of time and tide. These secret places are cherished by small bands of hardy swimmers, and in a heat wave they are well worth seeking out. One of the most dramatic is at Dancing Ledge in Dorset, a rocky shelf beneath the cliffs, where long ago masters from a nearby prep school blasted a tiny pool from the limestone to teach their shivering charges to swim. It's a half-hour slog across the cliffs to reach the ledge, and a precipitously rocky scramble to get down on to it. The reward is an icy cold swim in the clear water held by a roughly hewn pool studded with limpets and barnacles. If you linger until the tide turns, the waves will come crashing and bounding towards you, to swallow up the stillness of the rock pool, until there's nothing left but leaping sea.
Shoalstone Pool Brixham, Devon Swimming season: May-September. Opening times: Lifeguards
on duty 9am-6pm. No charge for swimming. Deckchairs and sun beds for hire.
Further information: Torbay Council, 01803 201201.
Refreshments: Beach cafe on site. Where to stay: The
family-owned Berry Head Hotel (01803 853225, berryheadhotel.com),
is a converted military hospital on the water's edge; £64-£80 per night
half-board.
Summerleaze Beach sea pool Bude, Cornwall Swimming season: May to September. Life guards on duty,
10am-5pm. No charge for swimming. Further information: North Cornwall
District Council, 01208 893333. Refreshments: snacks at the Life's
A Beach cafe close to the pool. Where to stay: The Old Vicarage
B&B (01288 331369) at Morwenstowe, seven miles from Bude, was built by
a poet vicar who had the chimneys modelled on the towers of the six
churches where he'd held office. £25 per night B&B.
Walpole Bay Pool Cliftonville, Margate, Kent Swimming season: June-September. Opening times:
Lifeguards on duty 10am-6pm. No charge for swimming. Further
information: Thanet District Council, 01843 577000.
Refreshments: cafe on the promenade at Palm Bay, two minutes' walk
away. Where to stay: A hundred metres from the pool is the Walpole
Bay Hotel (01843 221703), a family-owned establishment with the ambience
of a bygone era, crammed with flowers and doilies. Tracey Emin is a
frequent guest. B&B £60-£75.
The Tunnels Beaches Ilfracombe, Devon Swimming season: Open all year to visitors; best time,
April-September. Opening times: July and August, 9am-9pm; the rest
of year, 10am-dusk. Lifeguard on duty during opening hours. Entrance fee:
£1.75 adults; £1.25 child. Further information: 01271 879882, tunnelsbeaches.co.uk. Refreshments: cafe on site
plus children's play area and surf shop. Where to stay: Next door
to the tunnels is the Westaway (01271 864459), a substantial gentleman's
residence built around 1900, now an airy guest house; £25-£30 per night
B&B.
The Rock Pool Newcastle, County Down, Northern Ireland
Swimming season: July and August. Opening times:
Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm; Sunday 2pm-6pm. Supervised by lifeguards.
Entrance fee: £1.20 adults; £1 children. Further information:
Newcastle Leisure Centre, 028 437 25034. Refreshments: The
Strand or Sea Salt cafes, a few minutes' walk away. Where to stay:
Mountain View B&B (028 437 22634) in Newcastle, a recently renovated
bungalow with views of the Mourne mountains run by travel enthusiast
Claire Hassall. £25 per night B&B.
Tinside Lido The Hoe, Plymouth, Devon There are other pools at Devil's Point, on Plymouth Sound, and Mount Wise, on the Tamar Estuary. Swimming season: This year, August 16- September 7; next year,
May-September. Opening hours: Lifeguards on duty10am-6pm. Entrance
fee: £4 adults; £3 juniors. Plymcard holders swim free this year.
Further information: Plymouth City Council, 01752 668000; Tinside,
0870 3000042. Refreshments: Poolside kiosk. Where to stay:
Plymouth Backpackers Hostel, The Hoe (01752 225158,
The Pool and Lady Basset's Baths Portreath, near Redruth,
Cornwall Swimming season: May-September. Lifeguards on duty on Portreath
beach, end of May to mid-September. Opening hours: 10am-6pm. No
charge for swimming. Further information: Kerriera District
Council, 01209 614000. Refreshments: The Pirate's Retreat on the
sea front is unbeatable for banana splits and ice-cream sundaes. Where
to stay: Peaceful woodland camping a couple of miles along the coast
in the Rose Hill Touring Park (01209 890802, rosehillcamping.co.uk) at Porthtowan, £10.50-£16.30 per
two-person pitch.
Havre des Pas bathing pool St Helier, Jersey Swimming season: May-September. Opening hours: Lifeguards
on duty June-September 10am-6pm. No charge for swimming; deckchairs for
hire. Further information: Pool office, 01534 728782.
Refreshments: There is an on-site restaurant overlooking the water.
Where to stay: A stone's throw from the pool is La Bonne Vie (01534
735955), a small Victorian guesthouse with prize-winning gardens. £22-£32
per night B&B.
The Rock Pool Westward Ho!, Bideford, Devon Swimming season: June-September. Opening hours:
Lifeguards on duty 10am-6pm. No charge for swimming. Further
information: Torridge District Council, 01237 428700; lifeguards,
01237 472907. Refreshments: Choice of cafes 10 minutes' walk away
in Westward Ho!. Where to stay: Elmscott Youth Hostel in Hartland
(01237 441367, yha.org.uk), approx 12 miles away, in a renovated
Victorian school in a wild and windy location with views of Lundy island.
B&B: £7 per night under-18s, £10.25 adults. The Trinkie Wick Bay, Caithness Swimming season: Mid-June to end-September. No lifeguard. No
charge for swimming. Refreshments: Take your own picnic - and a
jumper. Where to stay: Scenic camping at Riverside Caravan Club
Site (01955 605420 or 01342 326944) in meadowland beside the river Wick,
half a mile from the town centre. £12-£15.50 for a two-person pitch (£5
discount for Caravan Club members).
For more information on outdoor pools of all kinds, past and present,
go to lidos.org.uk. Feedback: how was it for you?
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